Volcom Fiji Pro Preview

The Volcom Fiji Pro's waiting period is set to kick off on Sunday, and there's reason to be excited. This is one of my favorite events on tour; I mean, it's set at one of the best lefts in the world. Cloudbreak is one of the coolest waves on the planet when it's on, as it can give incredible barrels and huge faces depending on the conditions, and Restaurants is a left that goofy footers like me dream of. Last year Kelly won the event in the biggest non-surprise of the year. Tavarua is essentially Kelly's home away from home at this point, and nobody on tour has surfed there more than the legend himself.

I hate to go chalk on a prediction, but let's just get that out of the way now. I can't in my right mind predict anyone but Slater to take home first at the Fiji Pro, but there are some guys that could challenge him. Last year Gabriel Medina made a nice run on his forehand before getting squashed by the king in the finals. The Hobgoods are always dangerous in any left-handed tube. Jordy Smith, fresh off his win in Rio, is a threat as well. He's been in Tavarua basically since Rio to prep for this event.

The real challenger to Kelly in this event, though? I think it will be Mick Fanning. I love how Mick has been surfing this year, and his consistent results prove that he's in top form this season. He's one of the most focused surfers on tour, and while Cloudbreak might not suit him perfectly, he's my best bet to take down Kelly. 

No matter who wins, these elite surfers will be treated to a week or two in paradise, surfing two of the best waves in the planet in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Cheers, boys. Nice life choices. 

Mitch Coleborn Making Run at World Tour Spot?

When 2010's Modern Collective came out, I remember thinking to myself, "Who is this Mitch Coleborn guy?" Coleborn's performance in the film was modern, progressive and aggressive, but I'd never really heard of him before then. Then as quickly as he'd been thrust in my mind did he begin to fade from it, but he never totally disappeared, which is why it struck a chord with me when I recently read that he'd won an ASP Prime event.

The 26-year-old will enter the Fiji Pro with the big boys next week as a wild card with a chance to really make a statement that he's more than just a highlight reel surfer. A guy that can do stuff like this is dangerous to any heat opponent:

The Surfing Swami

Nice read on Jack Hebner, aka the Surfing Swami, India's biggest surfing legend.

Volcom Fiji Pro Teaser

Fiji Pro waiting period starts June 2nd. Event preview coming soon.

Save Trestles

The fight to Save Trestles wages on, and the next battleground will be a Regional Water Quality Control Borad meeting on June 19th.  Supporters of Save Trestles are asked to show up as an act of solidarity, as there will be no public comment at the meeting.

For those of you not familiar with the situation going on with Trestles, here is a quick video sum up:

Where Have All the Full Waves Gone?

Good opinion piece by Surfer's Brandt Hart on the short clip obsession in today's surf film industry. I agree with him that we miss out on the true wave-riding experience with these one maneuver-happy filmmakers, but that it's hard to convince these guys to change because their films are so popular. Hart says it best here:

"Every time Dane Reynolds appears on the screen, lays into a bottom turn and then destroys the lip, I think 'Jesus Christ, that’s ridiculous.' And that’s all these films need to do in order to succeed."

That pretty much sums it up; most people don't have the attention span to wait out the drop and maybe a couple of lesser turns before that huge hack on the closeout section that gets everyone excited.

The Anatomy of a Swell

Surfline has a really cool feature up right now detailing the anatomy of the recent swell that lit up Teahupoo last week.  It's interesting to see what goes into tracking storms and forecasting swells, because Surfline does a great job of it all the around the world every day.  It's the first site I visit every morning to check the regional forecast and get a look at a couple cams.

MR

Mark Richards, so smooth.

Jordy Wins in Rio

Jordy Smith has come into this season more mature and more focused after an offseason spent working on his repertoire, and the fruits of his labor are starting to show. The 25-year-old took down Brazil's own Adriano De Souza in the finals of the Billabong Pro Rio on Saturday to take home his first event of the tour season. The win, which followed up a third at Bells, puts Jordy in second place in the world tour standings right now, behind only De Souza, who leads Smith by a measly 250 points.

Adriano came out typically aggressive in the final heat, nabbing some early waves, but Jordy's patience eventually paid off. Smith's exuberance was on display after an 8.50 ride in which he linked together an aerial maneuver and a carving turn in one of the most seamless manners I've ever seen, as the South African was putting on an uncharacteristically big claim. But it may be Ariano's personality in the water that brings out the claims in his competitors. Personally, I'm not of fan of De Souza's attitude out there, but he certainly makes for fiery heats. Jordy put Adirano away for good when he busted a huge air with a grab that netted him a score of better than nine, and that was all she wrote.

One must remember that Smith was a legitimate world title contender in 2010 before struggling a bit the last two seasons. As one of the bigger surfers on tour, his power is unmatched in the water, something that puts him in elite company even among the best in the world. Could this be the year that Jordy breaks through and wins it all?

It's worth noting that Mick Fanning is right behind Adriano and Jordy in the season standings right now, as he's been the Peter Townend of the season through three events, not winning any contests but consistently contending and racking up points.  Thus far in 2013, Fanning has posted finishes of third, fifth and third, so he's in the hunt, as usual. Kelly is currently slated fourth, so as long as he's in striking distance everyone above him will be looking over their shoulders. Rounding out the Top Five is Taj Burrow, who is always near the top of the standings but never actually at the top despite his talent level.

A few other notes include the fact that Gabriel Medina finally had a strong showing this season, posting a third-place finish and showing that he's damn close to healthy if not fully there. He should be back in the title hunt within a few events; he posted a perfect 10 in the quarters that was downright naughty. Nat Young has been surfing really well this season, and he's currently ranked sixth. Reigning champion Joel Parkinson posted his second straight 13th, but it's too early to panic about Parko. Also Ace Buchan has surfed really well the last two events.

Here are highlights from the quarters on:

Billabong Rio Pro Completes Second Round

Finally, some surfing! The second round of the Rio Pro kicked off and was complected today in some stormy-looking surf at Barra da Tijuca. There weren't any real upsets in the round to speak of, so no surprises there.  Josh Kerr had the highest heat score of the day with a 17.94, and while the pros made the best of the conditions, only Kerr and Brett Simpson were able to crack a total of 15 in a heat.  For me, the most anticipated Round Three heats will be Taj vs. Kolohe (this could be a breakout year) and Julian Wilson vs. Sebastian Zietz.  Hopefully that will be tomorrow.

Teahupoo Goes Off

Lots of happy maniacs in Tahiti right now.  Check out the photos.

Watch: A Fly in the Champagne

Interesting documentary on the rivalry between Kelly Slater and the late Andy Irons.  Trailer and full movie below:

Another Lay Day

I feel like a broken record.  Next call for the Billabong Rio Pro is tomorrow morning; I've got a feeling we'll see action then.

Hands Across the Sand May 18th

Photo: Wikimedia (Mike DelGaudio)

Simply joining hands with like-minded people can make a difference, at least that's what those that take part in Hands Across the Sand think. This global event will take place in 50 countries on Saturday May 18th when folks across the globe join hands on the beach as a symbolic statement of support of the health of our planet. The event is sponsored by both the Surfrider Foundation and the Sierra Club, among other organizations.

"Join Hands to end our dependence on dangerous, dirty fuels. Join Hands to end global warming and climate change. Join Hands to embrace Clean Energy," it says on the event's web site. "This will again be a gathering in solidarity of people all over the world who care about preserving our precious oceans, oxygen, drinking water and food from dangerous, dirty fuels. The acquisition and burning of dirty fuels are destroying the earth. Ending our dependence of dirty fuels is essential to the survival of our planet. We will join hands to say NO to dirty fuels and YES to clean energy."

For those in the San Diego area, the closest Hands Across the Sand location is the Oceanside Pier; the event takes place at noon, will last 15 minutes and specifically target offshore oil drilling. Show up early if you can.

Last Lay Day?

Have you ever seen the movie Groundhog Day?  Well, rise and shine campers, because it's another lay day in Rio today. However, today's announcement does come with some hope.

“Only small surf on offer this morning so we’ve called a lay day for competition today,” Rich Porta, ASP International Head Judge said. “We anticipate swell to begin filling in by tomorrow afternoon and will definitely recommence competition in the coming days. We’ll return in the morning to make another assessment.”

Hopefully we'll get the second round underway tomorrow or the next day. This is day eight of the 12-day waiting period, so it's got to happen soon.

Peanut Butter: A Short About a Surfboard

Leah Dawson is a surfer, media creator, live camera operator and self-described positive living enthusiast. She created a little short called "Peanut Butter," in which the main character and "narrator" is a surfboard named, you guessed it, Peanut Butter. Very creative, very fun. If anyone can understand the love of a surfboard, it's me.

Another Lay Day in Rio

Another lay day has been called for the Billabong Pro Rio today, the seventh of the 12-day waiting period. Check back in tomorrow.

Kelly at Rincon

Another Lay Day in Rio

One to two-foot surf in Rio has the Rio Pro on hold again today.  Check back in tomorrow.

Lay Day For Rio Pro

A lay day has been called for the Billabong Rio Pro today with just one to two-foot surf on the docket. Next call will be tomorrow morning, when perhaps we'll kick off the second round of the event. Round One highlights include Pat Gudauskas upsetting Josh Kerr, rookie Sebastian Zietz dominating a heat than included Taj Burrow, Kelly and Jordy looking very strong and Gabriel Medina posting the highest heat score of the round (18.00).

Watch Sharkwater

Great documentary on the plight that sharks are facing thanks to humans. You tell me who the real predator is:

Another Fatal Shark Attack at Reunion Island

It might be time to change the name of Reunion Island to Amity Island. A French surfer was fatally attacked by a shark there on Wednesday, the third shark-related fatality at Reunion in the last two years. Attacks at the island have increased significantly over the last few years, and two attacks that occurred within days of one another last summer had the government there ready to hire shark hunters to cull the shark population in local waters, though the order was eventually revoked.

This is a difficult situation, because we're talking about the safety of humans here, but we're also talking about the merciless hunting of a fish that is already being killed at an alarming rate on a yearly basis (mostly for the shark fun soup industry). Despite the dangers to humans, I could not possible condone the killing of sharks. Sharks are vital to the oceanic ecosystem, and their population is already astounding low. This predator lives in the ocean, and we need to remember that we're the ones invading their home when we go into the ocean and that the peril is a result of that, not the result of some bloodthirsty monster that the shark has been repeatedly portrayed as throughout history.

There is a great documentary on the plight of sharks call "Sharkwater."  I highly recommend it; you can find the web site here, and the trailer below:

Julian Wilson Takes Flight

Someone has to name this maneuver.

Yoga Gets Me Through Flat Spells

Right now the waves in Encinitas are almost non-existent, and coupled with the rain a few days ago (the dreaded runoff!), it really doesn't seem worth it to paddle out today. So now I'm looking at a third consecutive day without surfing, so I'm starting to tense up a little. Surfing is my release, my meditation, my therapy, my religion. Without it, I'm a different person. I feel different; I act different; I'm just not the same guy.

Photo: Wikimedia (Jarek Tuszynski)

For a long time I struggled with this phenomenon until I found something that gives me a similar calming feeling, and that's yoga. Yoga seems to help my nerves nearly as much as surfing does, though the same stoke isn't there. Still, when the ocean isn't cooperating, yoga serves as a good alternative. Not only does it keep my paddling muscles working, it calms the body and mind.

I bought a couple of DVDs a few years ago that have been great to me.  Peggy Hall, a surfer/yoga instructor, created Yoga For Surfers over a decade ago, combining two of her passions. The routines are tailored specifically to surfers, to help loosen and strengthen the muscles used in paddling and surfing in general. Fans of the pro tour will also see some familiar faces pop up in the videos. There are a variety of different Yoga For Surfers DVDs suited to a multitude of skill levels, so there's something for everyone. I highly recommend checking one out if your flat spell experiences mirror mine. As Peggy says, "Ride the wave of your breath." It beats riding nothing at all.

Rio Pro is On

The Billabong Rio Pro has been called on for today.  Watch the webcast below:

Rob on the North Shore

Local legend and Pipe Master Rob Machado talks about his relationship with the North Shore:

Lay Day Called For Rio Pro

Thanks to stormy conditions, a lay day has been called for the Billabong Rio Pro, the third event in the men's World Tour season. Organizers will reassess conditions tomorrow morning for a possbile 7 am start.  You can watch the live webcast here.

Rio Pro Preview

Tomorrow marks the start of the waiting period for the third event of this World Tour season, the Billabong Rio Pro. First thing's first; last year's winner, John John Florence, will miss the event with an ankle injury sustained earlier this season on the Gold Coast, so we'll have no repeat for the young gun this week. John John is undoubtedly already one of the top surfers on tour, despite his young age. It's a shame his world title hopes were dashed so early this season, but he's got plenty of years ahead of him. Last year, John John took down eventual World Champ Joel Parkinson in the final, so look for Parko to bring his best stuff to Rio once again, though that's really not going out on a limb considering the high level that Parko has been surfing at since coming back from his gruesome heel injury two years ago.

Obviously Kelly is always a threat, so no need to go into that, but I'd keep an eye on Taj Burrow. He's in the best shape of his career and has posted a third and fifth-place finish thus far this season. He currently trails only Kelly in points after two events, as does Mick Fanning. Mick is always a threat, though his best is not enough to beat some of the more flashy surfers when they're at the top of their game. I thought Jordy Smith looked really good at Bells, and I expect him to be legitimately in the hunt for the World Title this year thanks to a more mature approach.

As always, I'll be keeping a close eye on Julian Wilson, my personal favorite surfer on the World Tour since Dane Reynolds decided to focus less on competition and more on just being Dane (which I fully support). Julian has shown flashes of World Title potential, but he seems to get outmaneuvered (figuratively more than literally) pretty consistently by the tour vets, especially Parko. The conditions will dictate whether or not high-flyers like Wilson and Josh Kerr have a real shot at this thing.

Mick Fanning
Photo: Wikimedia (kanaka)

And you simply can't talk about any World Tour event without mentioning perhaps the highest of flyers, Gabriel Medina. I'm not sure how healthy his ankle is, but if it's close to 100 percent then it goes without saying that the Brazilian wunderkind is a contender. He and John John are going to be headlining the big boy tour for the next decade.

If pressed, I'd take Mick in this one, mostly on a gut call, but not completely without reason.  The Aussie has looked as solid as ever thus far this season and I think this event suits him well. He was edged out by Parko in the semis last year, and this time I think he goes all the way. You can watch the webcast of the event live here.

Conference to Save Surf Spots This Week

Surfing organizations from the United States, Europe and Latin America are gathering this week to talk about how to conserve some of the world's best surf spots at the Global Wave Conference III.  Members and organizers of the Surfrider Foundation and other groups are meeting over a three-day period in Rosarito, Baja California, Mexico, just north of Todos Santos.

Here is the essential goal of the conference, outlined on the GWC Web site:

"While the coasts are attracting more and more people combined with increased development, climate change, sea level rise, the conservation of surfing waves is a major issue on many coastlines around the world.

Ocean waves come from the alignment of multiple social and environmental factors, many of which are only

Photo: Wikimedia (John Sullivan)

moderately predictable. There are several types of threats that can cause the degradation of a wave (pollutions, oil spills, coastal development, lack of accessibility, poor water quality, offshore development, etc.). As a result waves are vulnerable from many threats. For this reason many surf spots have now been altered or lost.

Against this backdrop, the challenge for the surfing community is to highlight the fact that the presence of a wave exceeds surfing alone and has larger community and societal benefits. As a result, one objective of the conference is to characterize what are the damages which can affect waves and coastal area and to study the best ways to fight them."

Dorian Takes Ride of the Year at XXL Awards

Shane Dorian's early season monster at Jaws took down Ride of the Year at last night's Billabong XXL Awards, an event that recognizes the best big waves of the year.  Dorian and Greg Long seem to have really separated themselves from the rest of the big wave pack over the last few years.

Shawn Dollar's 61-foot monster at Cortes nabbed him the Paddle Award (no surprise there, as it was the biggest wave ever paddled into) and runner-up to Dorian's bomb for the biggest honor.

These dudes are maniacs.  Much respect.

Finding Utopia

Watch this short film, seriously; it's worth it.  It's only about a half hour, and shows a life of simplicity and surfing in Costa Rica set to an interesting mix of tunes and audio clips. Check out the 3:23 mark for my favorite part of the film.

Dane

Dane Reyolds. Whoever came up with that whole, "a picture if worth a thousand words" thing was really on to something.

Wallpapers

New wallpapers from Surfer, as amazing as ever.

Billabong Pro Rio Preview Vid

Billabong Pro Rio preview. Waiting period starts May 8th.  Event preview coming soon.

The Smell of a Dead Fish

Something felt off as I took off on that left. It wasn't the swell, a fun though unspectacular southwest that had been spitting out two and three-foot lefties for me all morning. It wasn't the weather, high 60s without a cloud daring to blemish the huge expanse of blue sky above. It wasn't the water, clear as can be and finally starting to warm after a long, chilly winter season. But something was certainly off, and as I finished my bottom turn and tried to drive up toward the lip I knew. I knew it was over. I surfed the wave, managing a pair of meager turns that lacked any of my typical exuberance.

As I kicked out, I felt the urge to just paddle back out into the lineup; I didn't want to look. Knowing I had to, I slunk into the water, allowing my head to slowly submerge as if my beloved Pacific would cleanse me of the dread that had seeped into my bones as it had washed away countless troubles before. This time the feeling remained. As my head broke the surface, water ran into my eyes and I did nothing to wipe it away. I did not want to see what I was about to see. With a deep breath I flipped my cherished 6'0” twin fin fish over and surveyed the situation. It was then that the nightmare became a reality, as my eyes set on the massive indent in that gorgeous blue epoxy, crude fissures outlining the section of the stick that must have taken the reef in a seemingly innocuous wipeout one wave prior. This was no ding, not something that a little resin could take care of, nor a trip to the surf shop could remedy. This was a kill shot.

My heart sank; the session was over, but it was more than that. It was the end of an era, a four-year love affair that saw me ride that fish whether it was two feet and mushy or six feet and hollow; I didn't care. I gave away my thrusters, content to live aboard my smooth machine for what would be an eternity as far as I was concerned. I needed no quiver; I needed no fancy fin setups or hybrids. My fish took to the ocean like a shortfin mako, sleek and swift, racing down the line just in time to get to that closeout section for one last thrash.

The wave that took my fish away I can barely recall; it's the next one that's burned into my brain, the one where I felt the powerlessness of my vessel; it's etched in my memory as clear as some of my most treasured rides. I'll miss that fish forever. It was more than just a surfboard; it was a part of my life, a part of me. Whether it's weaving in and out of crowds of summer waders or duck-diving that first wave of a frigid February dawn patrol session, I'll have the fondest of memories of my friend. But it's absence will haunt me for a while; the void is palpable and the what-ifs unbearable. What could have I done differently? What if I hadn't paddled for that wave? How did it happen on such a small day? I'll never know, but there is one thing I am sure of; this time there are no other fish in the sea.

Origins

Dear Blog Reader,

Welcome to Go Left. If you're wondering where the hell you are, then I don't blame you.  Let me try to sum it up as briefly as possible. I've been surfing for about five years now, and, like it does for many people, the pursuit of riding waves has become somewhat of an obsession for me. I'm a 29-year-old, somewhat directionless writer with a degree in journalism (which won't get you too far these days, mind you), so I thought I'd combine my two biggest passions, writing and surfing, and try to make something out of the end product. Enter this blog. Don't let the name fool you; this blog isn't just for goofy footers like myself. Everyone is welcome, even land lubbers. I'd like to use this forum as a place to write about my personal experiences in the water, as well as somewhere I can share information about the surfing world and the oceans in general. If you have an interest in the water, then hopefully you'll find something of value here every now and again.

Go left,
Morgan